Visit Bangladesh Before All the Tourists Come

I stepped out of the airport, and instantly was smothered by a blast of tropical, Asian humidity. I was quickly hurried along by my father through the masses of what seemed like hundreds of taxi drivers trying to bargain for our business. As the taxi swerved in and out of traffic, I got my first memorable glimpse into the sights and sounds of the chaotic city of Dhaka.

Even at five in the morning with the windows rolled up there is no escaping the 24 hour symphony of street sounds in this city. The base rumble of motors, and treble of high pitched horns, are mixed with the wail of people chanting over the loudspeakers. Also known as the “city of rickshaws, Dhaka’s streets are an absolute free for all.  Hectic streams of vehicles jam the roads; elaborately decorated rickshaws, tuk-tuks, buses, cars and dare-devil pedestrians all compete for space.

I observed the rush of humanity; Dhaka is always on the move. Small shops line the street sides. People are everywhere, selling, buying, hawking. However crowded it may be, the madness of Dhaka’s streets is not anything too out of the ordinary for anyone used to traveling the South Asian continent. Bangladesh was exactly how I pictured in my mind it would be  from all the stories and pictures I had grown up with.

I woke up the next day to the sound of the Muslim call to prayer blasting over a nearby loudspeaker. Even though I could not understand what was being said, I enjoyed hearing it. I find it soothing and a signifier that I am in Asia, a continent that I will always be fascinated by.

The intense stares of swarms of curious on-lookers at first seemed abrasive, almost aggressive. However, it wasn’t long before I realized this was their way of showing hospitality, and that Bengalis are extremely  friendly  kind and welcoming people. Everyone wants to invite you to their home for cha (sugary, milky tea). I think I had at least six cups a day from various locations.

The title for this post comes from a tourist poster from the 70′s that still hangs on the wall in my parents house. I think this slogan would be just as true today in 2010, as it was back then. Bangladesh rarely makes headlines unless there’s a devastating monsoon, a statistics report on world poverty, or political turmoil. For a certain generation, Bangladesh is best known by George Harrison’s single, “Bangladesh,” that was created to raise money for the famine relief concert in Bangladesh in 1971.

Bangladesh would probably never cross most people’s minds as a place to travel to. It isn’t exactly on most people’s top travel destinations. I always tell people if you are able to survive traveling in Bangladesh, you will be able to survive anywhere in the world. You might be questioning then why I would be promoting this country as a desirable travel destination.

Although Bangladesh may not be the easiest country to visit for those accustomed to western culture, I truly  believe that Bangladesh does have something unique to offer. For those who are adventurous enough to brave the overwhelming bustle of Dhaka’s streets, having a ramshackle, former school bus jam- packed with people be your mode of transportation, being stared at by crowds of curious locals, not to mention possibly being exposed to some not so pleasant bathroom facilities, I assure you that  you will never forget this cultural experience  that is not like most others.

You will see things that most people will never see, and experience a country that most people will never visit. Soaking up a culture that is so vastly different is the reward that outweighs some of the trials of visiting a country that has yet to have the infrastructure in place to accommodate the travel industry.

The uninhibiting colours of the saris, and the pearly white smiles of the beautiful women that wear them, the smell of savory curries and fried samosas, people eating with their hands, the green lush landscape of the rice paddies and mustard fields, the hardworking hands of locals, children bathing in the river and waving excitedly at cars passing by, reckless bus rides through the countryside, flocks of curious villagers that smile brightly when seeing their picture in a digital camera, and the black shiny eyes of all the children you will meet. This is the country where I was born.

Bangladesh is wedged between northeastern India and Myanmar, and is among one of the most densely populated countries in the world. There are 147 million people that occupy  roughly the same area as the province of Newfoundland. Most of Bangladesh is free of tourists. However, this land of marshy jungles, expansive tracts of unspoiled beaches, and home of the world’s largest mangrove forest and Bengal Tiger is quietly bringing in tourists.

Tourism mainly comes from India, however more Westerners are discovering this undeveloped area along the eastern edge of the Bay of Bengal as a less touristy and cheaper alternative to Bali or Thailand. Most travelers avoid staying too long in Dhaka, and are lured by the pristine white sands of Cox’s Bazar. Cox’s Bazar, a middle size beach town is the centre for tourism in Bangladesh, and is what most people come to see. Untouched beach stretches out so expansively that it is hardly possible to feel crowded.

When traveling in Bangladesh:

  • The left hand is considered unclean, so only pass things, drink from, or shake hands using the right hand.
  • Personal space is less of an issue than in Western cultures. Bengalis often stand close when speaking.
  • Greetings usually only take place between the same sexes, as well as sharing meals.
  • Bangladesh is primarily a Muslim country with little evidence of westernized culture. There are few establishments that sell alcohol, as Muslims are against the consumption of alcohol.
  • Men should not wear shorts, and women travelers should cover shoulders and wear ankle length skirts/dresses out of respect for the culture, as this is custom for Bangladesh women.
  • Do not give flowers (as they symbolize death), alcohol, or non-halal meat to Muslims as gifts.

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The Wild Plains of Africa

Amazed and disillusioned at the sight in front of me, I was also happy to be safely enclosed in the back of my family’s 4×4 Toyota Land Cruiser. We had found what most people had come to see at Mikumi game reserve. Barely visible, camouflaged by the tall grass, crouched a pack of lions waiting patiently on their next prey. I was only six years old, but I will never forget this experience. Later when I returned to Mikumi much older, I was still just as fascinated by Tanzania’s exotic wild life, as I was as a young girl.

Mikumi National Park, near Morogoro, Tanzania, is one of the country’s less visited game reserves, and better protected from the environmental point of view. Mikumi offers endless terrain filled with wildlife and is home to over 300 bird species. Animals to spot here include: elephants, lions, hippos, leopards, giraffes, antelope and crocodile. It is also migration territory for herds of zebras, impalas, wildebeest and buffalos.

When to go

Best time to go is in the dry season between May and November.

What to do

Game drives and guided hikes

Where to stay

There are two lodges, a tented camp area and three campsites

How to get there

Mikumi National Park is a four-hour drive on a good surfaced highway from the capital of Tanzania, Dar es Salaam.

For more information on planning a trip to Mikumi visit

http://www.tanzaniaparks.com/mikumi.html

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Luang Prabang, Laos

I get antsy if I am in the same spot for too long.  I have my parents to blame for my impulsive need to get up and escape somewhere new, as they are both avid travelers. As a kid I would sit mesmerized, listening to my dad’s travel stories from when he ventured though South East Asia and Australia in his early twenties. I was particularly drawn to his time spent in Laos in 1975 when the Pathet Lao, the communist political party, began to take over after the Laotian Civil War. He was in the city of Luang Prabang during the May Day demonstrations, which was a major turning point in the war. He luckily escaped out of the country by boat during the night, before the border was shut down and people were not able to leave or enter the country.

Last year I got to see Luang Prabang for myself.  The one thing I noticed right away was how safe I felt in Laos, and I attributed much of that likely to the strong Buddhist influence in the country.  Although the country has faced an incredible amount of adversity, plagued by a number of bloody wars, today the Lao People’s Democratic Republic is a tranquil nation. With 80 percent of the population following Buddhist teachings, Buddhism plays a significant role in Lao culture, customs and social settings. The atmosphere in Laos is very calm and laid back. Laotians seem to always be smiling and are very kind and friendly people.  

Luang Prabang is a sleepy, peaceful town, and sits nestled between the Mekong and the Khan River. It is a place that still feels that it is on the brink of discovery. The countryside is a pristine blend of natural beauty, jetting mountains, lush vegetation and curvaceous rivers.

Due to the French Colonial rule in Laos until 1953, Luang Prabang is a unique intercultural mix of a small French town meshed with traditional Asian flair. Old French colonial architecture is found in the majority of the buildings on the main street. I found it odd, but amusing to see people in small cafes sipping on French style coffee and eating croissants in the middle of Asia.

Giving of the Alms              

Luang Prabang, which means “Royal Buddha,” is one of Asia’s oldest most preserved cities. The strong Buddhist presence is shown by the large number of ancient, but active Watts (temples) throughout the city. The first day I was in Luang Prabang, I woke up just before 6 am to witness the daily giving of alms to the local Buddhist monks. A gleaming orange broke the morning mist as a line of monks in saffron robes exited the temple where they live, onto the main road. I felt humbled to be able to experience this ritual which brought the whole town together.  A line of Lao women waited, kneeling on straw mats with baskets filled of hot sticky rice, bananas and candies. When the monks passed by, the women took the food out of their baskets and put it into the young men’s bowls. The monk’s food for the day comes from this morning procession, as they are not allowed to eat food that is not received from this ceremony or from family.

Amazing View From Mount Phousi                              

Directly in the centre of town, Mount Phousi is easily accessible. I found that sunset is the best time to climb the 328 winding steps to the top. Along the way there are a number of life size Buddha statues as well as two Watts. From the top, you get a spectacular panoramic view of the Mekong River on one side, and on the other the Khan River. At this time of day the sun glistens off the gold-leaved roofs of the town’s more than 30 monasteries. I found the setting almost meditative especially with the monks pounding on their ritual drums.

Tad Sae Waterfalls    

Renting a bike is a great way to get around town, as well as see the flourishing countryside of the sounding areas. My second day in Luang Prabang we took a day trip to the Tad Sae Waterfalls, which is 13 km south of Luang Prabang. This makes for a scenic ride, zigzagging along the mountain path through rural communities surrounded by lush tropical forests.

You can also get to the waterfalls by renting a took-took (small taxi). Tad Sae can only be reached by boat. Once arrived at the small village of Ban Eh savanh, a small finishing boat took us up stream 15 minutes to the waterfalls.

The waterfall is divided into three levels or steps, and has numerous pools perfect for taking a swim. There are a couple of short paths around the falls to go for a hike.

Hmong Night Market

Luang Prabang is not a place for those looking for nightlife, as the town completely shuts down by 12 am. However, one of my favorite night time activities was going to the Hmong Night Market. When I stayed in Luang Prabang I visited the market almost every evening, as I have always found that you really get to learn about a country’s culture by visiting their markets. I must say that compared to other markets I have been to, the Luang Prabang night market is one of my personal favorites.

The market is a 5-minute walk from the main town area, and is open everyday from 5-11 pm. When dusk falls the whole stretch of Th Sisavangvong road is closed off from vehicle traffic, and the Hmong Night Market comes alive. Open red and blue tents are lit by streams of yellow bulbs, where venders sit on the ground by their goods. The one thing I noticed is that Lao venders are not pushy bargainers. They are really easy going and don’t run after you like venders I have come across in Thailand or India. You can find just about anything at this market. From snake wine (literally a snake soaked in homemade wine), colorful silk scarves, hand embroidered comforters and woodcarvings.

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Sabalos Lodge, Nicaragua

From San Carlos (which runs along the Costa Rican border), a two-hour panga ride along Nicaragua’s Rio San Juan will bring you to the river huts of Sabalos Lodge. Practically hidden by the lush rainforests of the Los Guatuzos Wildlife Refuge, (Refugio de Vida Sivestre Los Guatuzos)  the seven cabins offer an adventure travel experience I assure you is well worth the journey.  

Los Guatuzos Wildlife Refuge is one of Nicaragua’s 78 natural protected reserves, and is made up of tropical wetlands and rainforests. This virgin territory is home to hundreds of plant, bird and animal species, including caimans, jaguars and howler monkeys. The refuge also consists of the Ecoglogical Center of Los Guatuzos which has a butterfly farm, and turtle, caiman and orchid nurseries for guests to explore.

Yaro Choiseul-Praslin owns the Sabalos lodge, a grey-haired Sandinista who’s tales of revolution regale his multinational guests. Wooden walkways lead to an open dining room lined with hammocks, and to the huts that are spread among the dense  jungle foliage. The huts are equipped with soft mattresses, mosquito nets, private bathrooms, and electricity until 9pm when the generator is turned off. Popular local activities include nature hikes and kayaking.

How to get there: There are two flights a day on Nicaragua’s domestic airline, that leaves Managua’s Augusto Sandino International airport  at 9:30 and 1pm seven days a week. The flight takes approx 45 minutes and should be booked well in advance, especially in the rainy season by calling the Costeña Office(283 0271; 7:30am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 7:30am-noon Sat). Once in San Carlos, it is a 20 minute walk downtown to the water, or a $1 dollar cab ride. Boats leave the dock Monday, Tuesday and Thursdays.

Must do: Take a night boat ride along the Los Guatuzos river. Listening only to the sounds of holler monkeys in the shadowy backdrop of the rainforest, and the calmness of the moonlight river is where I fell in love with Nicaragua for the first time.

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